Peppers & Ethics @ Fragranze 15

The Pitti Fragranze 2017, the biggest artistic perfumery fair-event of the year held in the Tuscan city of Florence from September 8th to 10th, hosted this year more than two thousand visitors from more than fifty countries. 

The two hundred and twenty exhibitors welcomed this year more foreign buyers and visitors than ever, with a massive growth from Russia (+50%), but also from United Kingdom (+22%), Switzerland (+15%), Netherlands (+7.5%), United Arab Emirates (+12%), United States (+23%) and Japan (+28%). These statistics confirm the widening interest that the artistic or niche perfumery is attracting all over the world. Overall, I believe that it was another great edition of Fragranze, even if some exhibitors reported to me some frustration about the quality of the attendance in general.

In the first morning, I enjoyed the conference curated by the French house of Mane, one of the world leaders in the production of fragrance and aroma ingredients and chemicals. The topic presented this year was called “Spices in Perfumery – The World of Peppers.”

Spices are at the heart of many fragrant creations. They add some oriental, mystic and warm notes to the juice, or curiously sometimes some fresher impacts, as explained by Cyril Gallardo, Director Ingredients of Mane EMEA. The focus of the day was the pepper family which comprises a lot of spices surprisingly, sometimes popularly called peppers, but botanically different from “true peppers.” Cyril gave a clear overview of the broad pallet of ingredients their company can source from, and the ethical philosophy conducted by Mane in this business.

The panelists, from left to right: Veronique Nyberg, Lutz  Hermann, Michaela Giamberti and Cyril Gallardo from Mane.

Veronique Nyberg, VP Creation Fine Fragrances EMEA of Mane and a prominent perfumer as well, took over to explain and demonstrate to the assembly the various extracted pepper essences available from Mane. Paper blotters, dipped into the different fragrance materials were offered to each participant to smell. Veronique explained the olfactory effect and use of these substances in perfumes.

To conclude, Veronique invited the revivalist and co-owner of the 1856-founded German perfume house of J.F. Schwarzlose, Lutz Hermann, with whom Mane and Veronique cooperated in making three new creations under the common theme of “the forest.” These fragrances were launched in a world premiere at the show. What a stroke of luck to be among the first people to discover them!

I was really amazed to recognize the previously smelt pepper notes in all these three fragrances, and see how these juices could end-up so differently from each other, with the addition of other essences and molecules, among which some Mane captive products.

The new Schwarzlose trilogy fragrances on display at Fragranze 2017, with Parfum Captive #1 in the forefront.

The first fragrance simply called “Parfum Captive #1“, transports us into a Northen white birch forest. The composition is centered on a note of orris root for a powdery white effect. A cocktail of peppers contrasts with the orris note pleasantly. The Mane captive molecule Ambramone is providing the dark and woody base that gives the sylvan character to the juice.

“Parfum Captive #2” is not surprisingly the name of the second creation. We enter here in a dark German forest with a green and mossy character. Ciste (aka rockrose) essential oil is used as a top note, and another assemblage of peppers lies in the heart. This time, the Mane captive molecule Santamanol ensures the woody character of the juice with some leathery nuance as well.

Timur pepper is botanically very close to Szechuan pepper but collected in high altitude lands of Nepal, giving it a particular character.

“Parfum Captive No.3”, my favorite, is the tropical version of this forest trilogy. A beautiful note of grapefruit essential oil is opening the dance. Soon after follows the Timur pepper, a false pepper growing in Nepal, cousin of Szechuan pepper,  and one of the latest discoveries of Mane for its use in perfumery and aromas. Timur pepper adds citrusy, and passionfruit notes that blend marvelously well with the grapefruit EO and the ginger CO2 extract. The captive molecule used here is Lorenox, a woody-ambery note that Veronique finds very sexy and sensual. Finally, some Bourbon vetiver fixes the juice and brings a smooth depth to it.

A video is anyway worth a thousand words, and you can view this captivating conference in its integrality by clicking this link or visiting the official Pitti Fragranze website. Do not worry about the introduction in the Italian language; the main part is in English.

I also invite you to watch the recorded conference lead by Luc Carrière, Environment Manager – Sustainable Development Coordinator of Mane by clicking this link. The subject of this presentation is ETHICS & SUSTAINABILITY in Niche Perfumery. Luc gives us here a very different perspective of the industry which might change the way you select your next fragrance. The cosmetics, aromas and fragrances industry can sometimes deplete our environment from precious resources, or in the opposite help its sustainability if things are done right. Speakers like Julian Bedel of Fueguia 1833 and Lana Glazman from Estee Lauder share their point of view, based on their very different origin and background. Overall, a genuinely informative and mind-opening time moment supported by leading professionals.

These two conferences were very enlightening for me since perfumery ingredients are one of the main focus of Scent and Flavor. They also make Pitti Fragranze a unique time of discovery and reflexion surrounding the world of perfumery that we all love.

Next week, I will share with you my fragrant discoveries and picks at Fragranze 2017; so hold on for a week and stay tuned.

I wish you a beautiful beginning of Autumn, the season to pull out our heavier and darker juices from the shelves and enjoy their slow and mellow dry down.

See you next week my friends!

Laurent

 

 

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