Last week, I reported about the two captivating conferences I attended at the 15th Edition of the Pitti Fragranze fair in Florence. It is time now to share with you my fragrant discoveries, as this might inspire you for your next sampling and purchases this year.
Please note that Fragranze is the fair of artistic (or often called “niche”) fragrance and for this reason, no “designer fragrances” such as Christian Dior, Chanel, and others will enter into consideration in this post, simply because they were not present at the event. These artistic fragrances can’t be easily found at duty-free stores or from fragrance discounters, but increasingly at good department stores and of course in serious perfumery shops. Many of them also deliver online directly or through fragrance sites such as notino.com.
I started my tour of Stazione Leopolda by visiting the booth of J.F. Schwarzlose Berlin and reported last week about their just-launched creations centered on pepper notes, surrounded by a captive molecule from Mane. The rest of the Schwarzlose fragrances is remarkable and worth trying as well. I have a particular love for 1A-33, named after the Berlin number plate of a limousine, in pre-war Germany. This fragrance’s top note is linden flowers, one of the favorite smells of my childhood. Linden is here well married with some citrus and floral notes, decorated with a classic bouquet of peppers from Veronique Nyberg, all lying on a calming bed of powdery iris and soft woody notes. 1A-33 is a light fragrance for summer and bright winter days, to put you in a great mood. From the same house, I also like Altruist, launched last year at Pitti, and somehow a predecessor of Parfum Captive #3 (see my previous post) with notes of rose. Zeitgeist, with a marine accord of seaweed, calone, and ambergris is also one of my usual favorites, but this juice will not please everyone; you love it or you hate it.
My next stop was for the respected yet-too-modest French house of Jardin de France. This company is producing original and delicate fragrances of incredible quality. Their latest line called Origines is made of five fragrances: Terre Initiale (Initial Earth), a woody-aromatic and fruity composition where I find an enormous note of Cashmerean giving this excellent earthy character. Bois Premier (First Wood) is my first purchase after the show and my favorite in their line. What a beautiful and subtle blend of wood, spices, and floral notes. This juice has a minimal sillage but lasts for many hours and keeps you in a comfort zone for the whole day. Pierre Originelle (Original Stone) is a more spicy and herbal blend with some iris in the heart. Metal Absolu (Absolute Metal), which was already in my post about metallic notes, is for me the very best “metallic perfume” on the market and a real treasure of creativity – it might not suit every nose though. Finally, Cuir Eternel (Eternal Leather) is a truly animalic and floral fragrance with some base of vanilla and oud, very interesting indeed. The bottles are simple yet beautiful and the price tag is surprisingly affordable. The brand manager Dominique Reinert was at the booth with the young house-perfumer and nose Justine Brivet, both of them being very welcoming people. I hope many of you will discover their wonderful creations. Jardin de France organize perfumery initiation seminars for lay people in their charming laboratory in the heart of Burgundy, where you can also enjoy some of the best wines of the World. For more information, visit their website: www.jardindefrance.net.
I continued my tour with Ulrich Lang, New York. There, I had the honor and pleasure to meet Ulrich himself, an amiable gentleman with an impressive track record within his ten years at the head of his niche brand. Ulrich told me that his current best-seller is his latest creation called APSU, an ozonic-green and slightly floral blend enhanced by a splendid photo visual created by Brooklyn-based artist Matthew Porter. You can enjoy the whole line of ULNY at Barneys’ New York which carries the brand since its very beginning.
L’ Atelier des Ors launched this year a new fragrance called Iris Fauve, to complete its collection of now seven elegant and warm-hearting juices, all created by nose Marie Salamagne, a prolific perfumer also behind the hit of Black Opium from YSL. Iris Fauve is naturally centered around an iris note blended marvelously with musky and balsamic notes of labdanum and resins. Sillage and longevity are very promising and already reported by some fans as exceptional. I love this brand, for the classy and “warm” look of their bottles, filled with precious juices and gold leaves that get also sprayed on your skin, This might make these fragrances preferred by women, at least on working days. From the same collection, I love Musk Immortel which contains some of my favorite notes such as clary sage, immortelle, and Haitian vetiver. You can find L’Atelier des Ors fragrances in most Jovoy Boutiques worldwide.
Being myself a seasoned globetrotter, I am particularly touched by the concept of Fiilit with their Parfum du Voyage. This new house composes perfumes available in convenient formats that can be easily carried with you when traveling. Furthermore, each fragrance takes the soul and inspiration of a leading traveling destination such as the Cyclades in Greece, or Bali in Indonesia or Cuba. The core values of respect for the environment and ethical sourcing of ingredients are genuine and make this brand remarkable despite the limited amount of fragrances so far. I particularly love Cuba 19.9N, with notes of tobacco as one can imagine, and also rum and fresh notes of citruses to open the dance. Spices and floral notes decorate the assemblage and bring us deep into the atmosphere of La Havanna. The Cyclades is a light Mediterranean herbal, and citrusy blend and Bali is a sweet and floral fragrance on a soft woody base. These fragrances can be ordered online with free shipping conditions above a certain purchase amount. I was very well received by Regis at their booth and thank him for the hospitality.
I hope to see you on my blog next week for more discoveries to share with you.
Have a great week, my friends,