Discoveries at Fragranze 15 (Part 2)

Dear friends, I began last week to report about the Fragranze 2017 artistic perfumery fair held in September in Florence and highlighted my fragrant discoveries. Too many to pack on one weekly post and this is why this second part is just the continuation of last week’s post.

Miller et Bertaux was a revelation to me, as I did not know the brand until now, I must confess. I was charmed by the poetic inspiration of each creation, the minimalist and natural design, and by the quality and the originality of the juices. My favorite in the line is Oh, ooOoh …oh (mist, wood, wind and guitar), a woody aromatic blend with lots of cedar, juniper, some green effects apparently from absinthe and cannabis extracts, and a smokey leather in the background. With the title and given elements of this perfume, you can imagine yourself sitting in the forest by a campfire at night, listening to the fire crackling and a country song played on the guitar. For the ladies, try Eau de Parfum #1, (for you) / parfum trouvé, a soft woody floral with some oriental character, and the delicious Bois de Guaiac et Poire aka close your eyes, and … , a gourmand floral with pear and almond notes with a heart of one thousand roses and jasmine; very sensual and delicate. These fragrances can be found in a few boutiques in France and ordered online following this link.

Living for more than half of my life in Asia, I am particularly interested in the development of artistic perfumery on this continent. The use and understanding of perfumes in the Far-East are different from the ones in the Western world or even in South-Asia. It was, therefore, a pleasure to discover at Pitti this year the line of DI SER, from the Northern island of Hokkaido in Japan. This house started by sourcing, blending and selling pharmaceutical products, herbs, and other natural health food and came shortly after to perfumery. I had this time the chance to meet the owner Shinohara-San and get introduced to each fragrance of their line. DI SER exhibited most of their 17 EdT at the show. I was impressed by the quality of the juices and the daring power of some of them, for the Japanese are usually shy to use strong perfumes. I particularly liked Mizu (water in Japanese), a delicate composition with the Japanese citrus Yuzu and lemons in top notes, the mysterious Boronia flower, jasmine and rosemary in the heart and tonka beans to ensure a smooth and gourmand dry down. The powerful woody-incensy Manara can perhaps scare some of you at the opening, but I guarantee you that the dry down is magic though not long-lasting enough on my skin. DI SER fragrances are difficult to find. Besides one dealer in Switzerland and direct online sales in Japan, you will need to communicate by e-mail to check how to purchase and receive these exciting fragrances.

Just a step away from DI SER was the booth of the friendly Miya Shinma, a Japanese-born lady who studied perfumery in Paris and still living there. I was perhaps not fully convinced by her line last year, but Miya’s new collection called L’Eau de Miya Shinma came as a very nice surprise. Very little information was available at the fair though, as the line is not yet officially launched and thus still not available for sales. I tested the five fragrances and found these original, modern and well-balanced, using the type of aroma chemicals that turn me on. Visit Fragrantica in a couple of weeks to check their composition and see if you can find them in some exclusive perfumery stores in Europe. They can also be ordered online on Miya’s webshop.

The British perfumer Mark Burton is a legend among the perfumers. After having created jewels for fashion and designer brands such as Cartier, Versace, Gianfranco Ferre, Givenchy, Paco Rabanne and many others. His work for the avant-garde house of Comme des Garcons with synthetic molecules was outstanding. Max is now free from commercial constraints to create for his own brand, and the result is impressive. I had the pleasure to test again his full collection at Pitti and selected for you two of my favorites in the picture above. Devil in Disguise is a sweet-floral centered around a note of rhubarb that I particularly like and vetiver which is Mark’s fetish natural ingredient. The author imagined the danger of an invisible woman in the air and coined this original title to this unique fragrance. Emotional Drop is apparently a revisited version of Emotional Rescue, a perfume created to restore calm and balance in difficult times. This EdT is a fruity aromatic scent turning around a dominant note of vetiver decorated by gooseberries, red and black currants, and some powdery iris to contrast with the sharp fruity notes. Very different indeed, but that’s what niche fragrances are for, aren’t they? Mark Buxton fragrances are relatively easy to find in department stores and specialized perfumery shops, or online.

To finish softly my post this week, I could not resist in mentioning this fantastic gourmand juice from the Maison de Parfums CHABAUD, called Lait et Chocolat (Milk and Chocolate). The name says what it is, but I can tell you that no fragrance reproduces this milk chocolate accord as well as this one from Chabaud, and as a Swiss, you can hopefully trust me about chocolate. This juice is a pure gourmand marvel, and it is hard to resist not to drink the whole bottle at once. Now, whether you want to smell like a yummy chocolate drink is another story which I will let you meditate upon. Besides this gourmand gem, Maison Chabaud – a successful family owned perfumery house of the South of France –  offers a full range of quality perfumes and home fragrances for all personalities and occasions.

That’s it for the week, Folks. I hope to see you on Scent & Flavor next week again, where I will post the third and last part of my report on Fragranze 2017.

Until then, have a very fragrant and gourmand week, my friends,

Cheers,

Laurent

Leave a Reply