Discoveries at Fragranze 15 (Part 3/3)

This post is the last of my series of three, reporting on my fragrant discoveries at the major event of artistic (or niche) perfumery of the year, the Fragranze 15th edition in Florence.

The Paris perfumery boutique and fragrance house of JOVOY showed the result of a fascinating artistic project called “What Matters Is Inside.” The idea was to create a perfect perfume dedicated to a country, this time Italy, by asking local perfume aficionados through a questionnaire, what scents and notes they associate with their country. Based on this input, four noses were put in competition to express these notes in an original creation. The winning creation voted online by a panel of selected professionals and amateurs, is the one of the Italian nose Andrea Casoti. This juice was presented in grand-premiere at the Fragranze fair and will then be produced exclusively for the Jovoy distributor in Italy, This beautiful creation is opening with some citrus and ozonic notes. The heart is fruity and gourmand with some panforte spices as well. The base notes are warm, balsamic and woody. A superb olfactory picture of this bountiful country. I can’t wait to try this creation again during my next trip to Italy.

The United Arab Emirates house of WIDIAN AJ ARABIA showed a complete line of precious fragrances with an Arabian spirit. The beautiful bottles are inspired by the architecture of the Sheikh Zayed’s Grand Mosque of Abu Dhabi, where the house is based. Surprisingly perhaps, WIDIAN fragrances are not dominated by agarwood essences. Three collections are available: the Black one, with five perfumes and an omnipresent sandalwood decorated by various notes. The Gold collection is musky with fruit accords in the number I and more spicy notes for II. Two fragrances are composing the Velvet collection, more soft and feminine than the others. My favorite was the Black III with its strong leathery note, dry woods and this outstanding bergamot on the top, along with a hint of spearmint to cool it down nicely. Widian perfumes are distributed by Jovoy in France and can be found in serious perfumery shops in many other countries. Check their site for more details.

I tried the fragrances of 4160 Tuesdays London when in New York this summer and was charmed by the originality. I had the chance this time to try the whole collection and again got delighted by the creative sense of Sarah McCartney who was present at the show, with her friendly husband. These perfumes are made in small batches, and as a matter of fact, a 2017 edition might smell different from an older one. I fell in love with Black Velvet Cafe, a subtle balance of coffee absolute and oud, with an excellent projection, sillage, and a superb longevity. This note of coffee is magic! Lots of pleasing juices overall, each of them related to a precise story in Sarah’s life, like the funny Maxed Out that was explained to me by the passionate owner of Maison 10 in New York.

Samples of Neela’s Vermeire fragrances generously offered to me by Neela herself at the show. A big thanks to Neela for connecting me with interesting people in China.

Neela Vermeire has a unique personality, and her Indian origin naturally gave her the taste for exotic scents and fragrances that also appear in her creations. Neela realized her dream to create her own line of perfume, after winning the support from the star perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour who loved her project. We are here in another world, as it appears clearly that this line of seven fragrances are none similar to what Western perfumers would come up with. Narcotic flowers, ripe exotic fruits, warming and cooling spices, dry woods and resins, and beautiful roses like in Neela’s  crown jewel called Mohur. This juice even exists in a more concentrated form, Mohur Extrait, which gave me a very strong impression. The latest creation, Rahele, meaning “traveler” in English, is a successful blend of the osmanthus note with some floral and powdery heart and a powerful leathery and mossy base. Neela’s fragrances are available in many good boutiques worldwide and online on her website.

A view on Oliver & Co’s collection at the fair

I don’t know why, but it seems that I tend to like fragrances from self-made perfumers and Oliver & Co is another example. Oliver Valverde learned by experimentation in the beautiful Spanish countryside of his childhood, a land full of aromatic essences. He later experimented with synthetic molecules and became the master perfumer he is today, father of 14 original creations that have very few equivalents in the market. Ambergreen is a boost of green notes, including green bell-pepper which might surprise some of you. Shiso and basil complete this green bouquet that sits on ambergris and yellow amber notes. Resina is my favorite piece of the collection, because of the distinct note of star anise that tops us one of the richest bouquets of resins, among which a superb note of Eritrean myrrh. I encourage you to discover Oliver & Co’s creations since they are getting more widely available in perfumeries and on Luckyscent also. You should not be disappointed.

That’s it my friends. Three posts about Pitty 2017 seemed long to write and read, but there was actually so much more to tell about this great gathering of talent and craft. The 2017 edition was terrific and worth visiting, even for the ones like me flying 10,000km to attend the show.

From next week, I will be back on more posts about raw perfumery materials, as it is the aim of Scent & Flavor to make us discover the nature behind the smells.

I wish you a beautiful and fragrant week,

Cheers, my friends!




About Laurent 70 Articles
Born in Switzerland but lived half of my life in fragrant Asia, I want to share my passion for scents and flavors

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